RANTAROSVO: From rainy Belgrade to post-conflinct Kosovo

We left in the morning murky Belgrade. It's one of the first cities on this trip, that really arouse my appetite; I'm still convinced this place has a whole lot more to offer. You see, Belgrade is a contemporary city in spirit, currently undergoing restoration of its former pride. Falling between East and West, it is a place where the Orient and Europe meet. It's the perfect mix for those who're bored with those chocolate box Old Towns of Europe. With the euros of a week spent in Paris, you'll live comfortably in Belgrade & club for three. The trick is all about timing. On our last, sunday night, we spoke to hot-spot Bordel Bar's bartender. The best time to come is in Autumn, when the underground parties are fully on. Or the winter is fine too, if you pack a jacket or two. Like we already stated, clubbing in Belgrade in the summer means 100% mainstream, with the ug-clubs shutting down their doors. The explanation: the parties are so rough & dirty that these poor 6'4'' music-aficcionado Serbs need the summer to charge their batteries, makes sense huh?

Belgrade is the capital of second-hand Europe. That's it. A place to visit, explore & thank you come again! We'll definitely do that. This is the Berlin of Eastern Europe.

Some pics

Alcatraz is one of the most notorious badass fan gangs football club Partizan Belgrade has to offer, tags all over the place

Once again a tag that's seen in every street corner. 1389, the year of the Battle of Kosovo, when the Serbs tried to fight off the invading Ottoman Empire. Huge casualties in this bloody medieval battle for both sides, the Ottos winning. The Battle of Kosovo is particularly important to Serbian concepts of history, tradition, and national identity; maybe that's one of the reasons they felt so revolted against Kosovo's independence & haven't yet recognized it as an independent country..

Introduction to Kosovo

Kosovo is the world's youngest independent state, declaring independence from Serbia in February 17th, 2008. Since then, the recognition of the newly state has stirred emotions in countries worldwide. F.ex. Spain (for their own minorities, the Basks & the Catalans) & Russia (for close ties with Serbia) haven't recognized the Republic of Kosovo. The EU have recently called for all remaining states (including Spain, Slovakia, Greece, Cyprus, Romania) to recognize Kosovo, in order to speed the countries EU membership. Not that it's going to happen in a flash. There's still internal economic & political problems to overcome. However, in this area of Kosovo, that has suffered so much from conflict & war throughout history, the capital Pristina & it's people look hopeful with full hearts & clear minds.

Our bus trip to two-million-people Kosovo started at noon. We were supposed to reach Pristina, the capital, at 17:30. Wishful thinking; we got there almost one-and-half hours later due to traffic congestions & roadworks. Even our crazy bearded driver tried his best with fast lane driving in curves with no visibility, but thankfully we got to Pristina with just a few sudden full-pedal brakes, when these wacky drivers tried to come from the right with priority..the scenery was mountainous, with hills mounting on both sides of the curvy up-and-down road. In fact the road was so curvy that 50% of the curves were signaled with those red triangle attention signs. There was everything: rivers, stream, creeks, mountain, rocks, flora & fauna mixed up with orange-tiled houses sparsely spread all over the mountains, reminded me of the countryside in Portugal & Spain. We even saw rudimentary improvised football pitches next to fancy Serbian wine-yards. Then, somewhere half-way off Pristine on a pissing/smoking break, I could've figure blindfolded where we were. The fresh, oxygen-filled scent of forest mixed with the stench of petrol points you geographically to the Balkan countryside, no question about that. The bus rode all the way up to the Kosovo border comfortably, until the "men at work" signs started showing up. First time since my own military service that I've seen a military armored car live, after the Kosovo border.

The difference between the Serbian landscape to the Kosovo scape is that the latter is still in deep development. Houses are being constructed, roads built & businesses started. Everybody seemed occupied with something, even the smallest kids selling grilled corn on the streets. It reminded me of Africa. And just like our Southern continent, Kosovo will be one to shine for the future. We reached Pristina bus station, and had a hostel in mind. Instead of doing the Western thing of taking a cab, we walked some fifteen minutes to the bus #4 stop, rode it for 60 cents (they use euros in Kosovo, by the way), and walked the remaining kilometer exploring the city at the same time. The city center actually doesn't differ that much from other Eastern-European capitals, it's just that everything seems just a bit more messier. But how could it be in a city that's been capital for only two years? We got ourselves this nice cheap hostel, Velania Guesthouse, for 10€ (double private). It's in a nice embassy neighborhood, with good connections to the center. Tomorrow morning heading to Skopje with the 7:10 am train. PIcs from Pristina. This is a place still in development, with one of the most friendly people I've ever seen. You can't wish them any less than great success, knowing the region's tumultuous history. And those who worry about safety: it's all cool. An interesting, opening experience. So it goes.